Mountain Bikes Frames

Maybe your 2009 resolution was to get in shape. Or maybe you're just looking for a thrill that can keep you grounded and love the outdoors. Mountain biking may be the thing for you! There's lots of choices when it comes to mountain bikes, so how do you know what's right for you. Well, guide of what's out there can help.

First you'll want to know the kinds of bikes and what they're good for. There are 3 very popular types, but they aren't the only kind.

Full Suspension: With suspension forks at the front and back, this bike offers great comfort and control on hard trails and causes less impact on your body.

Rigid: This is your no-frills mountain bike, great for riding anywhere.

Hardtail: This is a rigid but with a front end suspension fork which makes it easier to control on rough terrain.

Other types include Dirt Jumping, Freeride, All Mountain, Downhill, 29ers, and Singlespeed bikes.

Other things may come into play while choosing the bike for you, such as types of frames and materials used, but now you know the basics. To learn more about the kinds of bikes available, visit beaconcycling.com.

You can purchase your mountain bike at a sporting goods shop, a bike shop, or even online. If you'd like to know where the best bike shops are, a list of the top 100 bike retailers can be found at bicycleresearch.com.

Depending on the brand name and style of mountain bike you're after, you could spend anywhere from $300 to $3,000. Some of the brands you might want to check out are Cannondale, GT, K2, Marin, Novara and Scott.

Some of the cheaper Mountain Bikes can even be in the $200 range like the 26" 2009 Men's Domain by Mongoose. It's a 21-speed full suspension mountain bike with a rust resistant powder coated aluminum frame. It weighs more than 42 lbs, and is priced at $258.

One of the more expensive 2009 mountain bikes available is the Scott Genius. This bike is made of all-carbon products for a light weight of just under 23 lbs. It is, in fact, the lightest full suspension "trail bike" offering 150 mm of travel on the market. It has a 3-mode traction system and depending on which of the 6 Genius models you get runs from $3,500- well over $13,000!

Of course, for $200-$300 you could also buy a Schwinn mountain bike at Target.

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Mountain Bikes

Tires/Wheels: You’ll note that the terrain for ‘cross races is not nearly as technical as your typical singletrack trail. With that in mind, super knobby 2.2 tires are only going to slow you down. Switch to a narrow pair of semi-slick tires such as the Kenda Short Tracker (1.90) or the Kozmik Lite II (1.75). Low profile tires with good side knobs for cornering work best.

Tires are easy to swap as conditions/needs change, but you could go so far as having an extra set of wheels with your “cross ready” tires already mounted. If you were sticking with the typical 26″ wheel size, any lightweight cross-country wheelset would be fine.

If you’re running disc brakes, you COULD put 700c (29′er) wheels on a 26″ mountain bike frame. As long as you use true 700c cyclocross tires, there should be enough clearance on MOST frames/forks. If you’re running linear pull brakes you still have options. Mavic makes a nifty adapter (Mavic 700c Brake Adapter) that attaches to brake post mounts and changes the brake’s position to allow for larger wheels. I have a pair of these on my commuter bike (regular 26″ hardtail mountain bike now with 700c wheels and cyclocross tires), and they work great. If you’re a weight weenie, you might balk at the additional grams but you can always drill holes in your frame to offset that (kidding, of course).

Before you switch wheels, be sure to double check the spacing between the rear dropouts. Road wheels might have rear hubs that are 130mm wide while mountain bike hubs are usually 135mm wide. Check out the late, great Sheldon Brown’s Web site for more information about frame/hub compatibility, or check with your local shop.

Drivetrain/Brakes: First, choose a clipless pedal that functions well in the mud, such as those offered by TIME and Crank Brothers. Make sure you’re adept at getting in and out of your pedals quickly, as you’ll be doing that quite a bit in a ‘cross race.  To some newbie riders, platform pedals and running shoes may seem like a good idea (considering the running sections), but think of it this way: if that system worked well, everyone would be doing it. The positive connection between clipless pedals and the shoe cleats still reigns supreme.

When it comes to making changes to cranks, derailleurs and shifters, I’d say that in most cases you could leave these alone. You could switch to a rear cassette with taller gears as you’re probably not going to need a 12-34 in the back. You could also remove your granny gear, to save a little weight, and limit the front derailleur. I’m lazy so I didn’t do any of that to my converted mountain bike. Truth be told, I’m close to having all but my road bike be singlespeed, so gears and derailleurs bore me.

My original converted mountain bike had linear-pull brakes and they worked fine. I hear the arguments for cantilever brakes, but my personal opinion is that when V-brakes hit the scene they worked better and were an improvement over canti’s. Also, I’ve ridden plenty of muddy mtb courses and even with my fat tires I still had enough mud clearance. Enough said there because I think disc brakes are even better. The UCI still has its bizarre ban against disc brakes, but for the vast majority of local ‘cross racers, UCI rules don’t apply. If you’re racing on a national or international level, well, you’re probably not doing so on a converted mountain bike.

For the rest of us, this is where you’re going to have to make some serious decisions as to really how far you want to go to convert your bike. If you want to swap out your flat bar for drop bars, you’re going to have to change your shifters/brake levers. The shifters should work fine (road shifters with mtb derailleurs or vice-versa), but road brake levers will not work well with linear pull brakes, nor will they work optimally with disc brakes. Personally, I say stop here and use whatever handlebar/brake/shifter setup you’ve got. If you go much further with the conversion, why not just take the next step and buy a ‘cross bike?

Well, that covers: frame, fork, wheels, tires, cranks, brakes, shifters, levers and pedals. That leaves rider cockpit items such as your stem as well as your seat and seatpost. If your fit is good and you’re comfortable on your bike, don’t change a thing. A more stretched out position may be better in the long run but, unless your mountain bike is set up so that your back is straight up when you’re riding, you should be fine. After a couple of races, you’ll know if you need to make any fit changes.

There you have it, now you’ve got no excuses. So toss your bike in the stand, grab a Duvel and ring that cowbell like you just don’t care.

Related stories:

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2. One in Three Buying New Bikes, Free Cyclocross Classifieds
3. Cyclocross Stars Score Two Mountain Bike National Titles - Updated
4. Ellsworth Bikes Sponsors Velo Bella Elite Cyclocross Team
5. SoCal Prestige Cyclocross Heats Up, Draws Mountain Bikers, Women and Juniors
6. Oregon Manifest Weekend Announced - Hand-Made Bikes, Cyclocross, and Culture

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GMC Denali Women’s Road Bike (20″/50cm Frame) The GMC Denali 700C Women’s 21-Speed Road Bike is built around a lightweight aluminum 19.5-inch road bike frame. This model has the traditional dropped top tube women’s configuration. You’ll stop on a dime with the alloy calipers and brake levers, and the high-profile alloy Vitesse racing rims look as good as they perform. The Shimano derailleur and Shimano Revo shifts make it easy to change gears quickly and smoothly, and the high-performance 700c tires are up to the challenge of rigorous street racing. Lastly, this road bike will help you stay hydrated with the included alloy water bottle cage.

Specifications:

• Frame: Aluminum 7005 straight gauge
  
• Fork: GMC Series 7000 steel
  
• Chain: KMC Z 51
  
• Crankset: Prowheel Alloy 335P6 28X38X48 170mm
  
• Front Derailleur: Shimano FD-TZ 31 Index
  
• Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ30GS 7SPD
  
• Shifters: Shimano Revo SIS L2/R7
  
• Brake levers: Promax BL-250AP Aluminum
  
• Brakes: Promax 501A Alloy Caliper Brake
  
• Rims: Vitesse Alloy black 700CX14GX36H
  
• Tires: Kenda Black With Grey Band 700X28C
  
• Stem: Aluminum black EXT:100mm 0D.
  
• Handlebar: Maesbend W: 430mm D:22.0mm
  
• Saddle: Cionlli Black
  
• Seat post: HL Aluminum Micro Adjust 27.2 X 300mm
  
• Pedals: VP-990S plastic body with steel cage
  
• Weight: 29.0 lbs

Amazon.com Bicycle Buying Guide
Finding the Right Bike
To really enjoy cycling, it’s important to find a bicycle that works for you. Here are some things to keep in mind when you’re in the market for a new bike:

The Right Ride
In general, bikes are broken down into three major categories:

• Road and Racing Bikes–As a general rule, road and racing are built for speed and longer distances on paved surfaces. Thinner tires, lightweight 29-inch (700c) wheels and drop bars that allow for a more aerodynamic position are the norm. Most road bikes, regardless of price, offer many gears for tackling both hilly and flat terrain.
  
• Mountain Bikes–With their larger tires, hill-friendly gearing and upright position, mountain bikes are very popular for all types of riding, both on pavement and off. Mountain bikes that are designed specifically for rugged trail use typically feature a suspension fork. Some may have rear suspension, as well. A quick change of the tires on any mountain bike–even one that you use regularly on trails–adds to its versatility and makes it a worthy street machine.
  
• Comfort/Cruiser Bikes–For tooling around on bike paths, light trails, or for cruising a quiet beach-side lane, comfort/cruiser bikes are the ticket. With a super-relaxed riding position, padded seats, and limited or no gearing, these bikes are made for enjoying the scenery and having fun with the family.

The Right Price
A bike’s price boils down to three essentials: frame materials, bike weight, and component quality and durability.

• Entry-level–You’ll find a wide range of comfort and cruiser bikes in this category, as well as some lower-end mountain bikes and road bikes. Most will have steel frames and components that are designed to last for several years with frequent use.
  
• Mid-range–Bikes in this range may feature a lighter aluminum frame with mid-range components that keep performing after miles of use. If you’re looking for a quality bike that is relatively lightweight and will stand up to abuse, this is the “sweet spot.” Most serious commuter and touring bikes fall into this category, as do mid-range mountain bikes with a decent front suspension.
  
• High-end–Racers and serious enthusiasts who expect lightweight, high-performance components will want to stick to this category. For road bikes, exotic frame materials (carbon fiber, titanium) and ultra-lightweight components can add thousands to the price tag. Mountain bikes in this class often feature advanced front and rear suspension technology, as well as components designed to handle lots of rugged trail action.

The Right Size
Fit is crucial for comfort, control, and proper power and endurance on a bike. Here are some basic bike fit tips:

• Stand-over Height–To find out if a bike’s overall height fits your body, measure your inseam. Next, determine how much clearance you’ll need between your crotch and the top tube of the bike. For a mountain bike, you’ll want three to five inches of clearance. A road bike should offer between one and two inches of clearance, while a commuter bike should have two to four inches. Compare the stand-over height for a given bike to your measurements (inseam + clearance) to determine the right bike height.
  
• Top Tube Length–You can measure your torso to get a good estimate of proper top tube length. First, make a fist and extend your arm. Measure from the center of your fist to the end of your collarbone (the part that intersects your shoulder). Next, measure your torso by placing a book against your crotch with the spine facing up. Measure from the spine to the bottom of your throat (the spot between your collarbones). Finally, add the two measurements (arm length + torso length), divide the number in half and subtract six inches. This is your approximate top tube length. Compare this number to a bike’s posted top tube length. You can allow for about two inches longer or shorter, as most bikes can be adjusted via stem length/height and saddle fore/aft position to make fine adjustments to the fit.
  
• Bikes for Women–Proportionally, women tend to have a shorter torso and longer legs than men. Bike makers design women’s bikes that offer a shorter top tube and many comfort/cruiser bikes built for women may also provide more stand-over clearance.

The Right Accessories
When you make a bike purchase, don’t forget these crucial add-ons:

• Helmet (this is a must!)
  
• Seat pack
  
• Lock
  
• Hydration pack, or water bottles and bottle cages
  
• Spare tubes
  
• Portable bike pump
  
• Gloves

Customer Review: Mediocre
This was my first road bike but I rode into the ground. I’ve easily put 600-700 miles on it in three months and it’s ready to be retired. The pedals make an clicking sound and the gears don’t change well. In fact, my chain tends to fall off from time to time.

I would recommend this bike to someone who is using it to commute short distances because it does ride well around town. I’m 5′5 and it fits me well.

Competitive bikers, look elsewhere. For the average rider, it’s about middle of the road, but it’ll get the job done.
Customer Review: the big problem
The bike in general is good, everything works, easy assembly, my big problem are the tires, i get a flat tire AT LEAST ONCE OR TWICE A WEEK!!!!!!!, OMG!!!, i need the bike, but this is imposible, i dont know what to do!.

Tags: 700c Wheels, Amazon, Bicycle Buying Guide, Bike Frame, Brake Levers, Caliper Brake, Drop Bars, Flat Terrain, Front Derailleur, Gmc Denali, Lightweight Aluminum, Mountain Bikes, Paved Surfaces, Racing Bikes, Racing Rims, Rear Derailleur, Road Bikes, Shimano Derailleur, Speed Road, Steel Chain

This entry was posted on Saturday, December 12th, 2009 at 8:46 am and is filed under Women Bikes. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

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